I'm sorry that you didn't recognize a bit of mild hyperbole when you read it. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

As for uncritically accepting the recommendations of an organization that guides for pay; read "Into Thin Air". Reading that and having a good look through "Accidents in North American Mountaineering" by the American Alpine Club should give you a healthy skepticism of at least a part of "for-profit" mountaineering. My experience with some of these organizations suggests that, while the management is experienced and their stated policies may be sound, many of the on-the-ground guides are young, fit, cocky, brash, and relatively inexperienced considering what they may have to deal with. I have seen a lot of risky leadership on the part of climbing guides over the years. Usually, but not always, they get away with it.