There are at least two DEEPLY UNINFORMED statements in Jimshaw's original post:

"if you can - continue upwards rather than descending difficult rock, there will most likely be a way to walk around from the top."

COMMENT: This is a highly standard way that fools get themselves in deep trouble. Did it myself in 1981. Without a rope (and willingness to fall on your gear) the ability to CONFIDENTLY downclimb anything you ascend is critical to safety.

"never rap below a couloire. Oh man - nearly died doing that "

COMMENT: Couloir is a French word meaning "corridor." Lots of particular couloirs are extremely well known, often "classic" routes for climbers. Making use of couloirs for ascent and descent is exceedingly common in mountaineering.

Yeah, some gullies (the English word) are quite dangerous at times, and it's very important to independently assess rockfall potential, or at the absolute minimum, to obtain some information from other climbers about the hazards of one's chosen route.

A regular on this board who made a great deal out of his own, personal experience, recently said Jimshaw has more knowledge than (most?) professional mountaineering guides. Perhaps then, this BAD ADVISE is merely a function of writing ability?