Dryer
it may appear that that stuff takes traditional knots well, but considering the loads I suggest looking further if you want knots that are anywhere near the load strength, and be prepared to lose from 20% to 50 % of the load value if there is any kind of knot. The OLD carabiners were round and pretty big, the ropes going around them were not stressed too much, but the tiny new carabiners are thin and bending rope around them severely weakens it. So there is a major offset to the weight savings. I'll bet Camp doesn't mention that in their beener information. Personally I would use a triple or even quadruple fishemans knot, but please do not take this as tested advice. Go to the manufacturer for specific knot recommendations if you depend on those knots for your safety. I have some old Dolt rings which are circles about 1.5 inch OD and they have smoothly curved internal shape so that they are shaped like an old wide carabiner. They are immensely strong and were the preferred way of bending a rope around something besides a fat beener.
Heres a photo of two original Dolt rings which were either forged or milled from solid rod, and on the bottom is a modern hollow version of much smaller diameter which is rolled from a stamping. Obviously the old Dolt ring would be less destructive to the rope, but of course the modern one is cheaper, lighter and available. They are used to set up anchors where a triangle to two sets of bolts and one looped rope downward, carabiners CANNOT take a three angle load.


the lower center ring is the modern one, the other two are original Dolt rings made by Dolt, they must be from the 60s.
Jim


Edited by Jimshaw (02/06/10 04:40 PM)
_________________________
These are my own opinions based on wisdom earned through many wrong decisions. Your mileage may vary.