Sooner or later, perhaps on your first backpack or hiking trip, you will be looking at a rock or cliff and thinking that it would cool to climb it. There are things you need to keep in mind as you do.
What is the class of the rock? Rock is loosely classified as class 1 through 6, 6 being impossible to climb without direct aid like pitons. Class 5 rock is the largest group and is referred to as technical rock, where roped technique, climbing shoes or special boots, and “Pro” protective devices carried by the leader can be inserted into cracks to provide attachment points for the rope, and a two person team, one leads and the other protects the leader by holding the rope and arresting falls.
Class 2 rock may be climbed easily but class 3 is called scrambling (similar to bouldering) and it requires using both you hands and feet. Class 4 is Class 3 climbing done in an exposed position where a fall could cause serious injury or death. If it seems like a long ways down and you feel pretty scared, you may have ventured onto Class 4 rock. Novice climbers should avoid class 4, 5 and 6.
On Class 2 rock you will want to have shoes with some traction but if they are soft soled and conform to the rock “smear” and the rock is dry, don’t worry, just keep your hands up about chest high to give you the best balance and move carefully trying not to step on rocks that can roll under you. If you slip off a rock and it rolls toward your foot you could break a bone or worse, have an ankle trapped between two rocks so its best to not even get onto Class 2 rock alone. A coffin sized rock is almost 100% safe to step on, smaller rocks should be looked at carefully for their shape, position, slope and surface.
Class 3 ROCK IS THE MOST DIFFICULT THAT YOU SHOULD ATTEMPT. It is steeper and you will feel the need to use your hands as well as your feet. If you are in old tennis shoes, or wide bottomed running shoes, don’t try it, if you have fairly new trail runners or cross trainers or boots, go ahead. Your legs will push you upwards so you will want positive footing; think about where your feet will go as you move up and you can see ahead, do not simply let them thrash around as they might land on a loose rock. You sort of climb your feet up while using your hands to hold you to the rock, then push up with your legs while finding new holds for your hands, and repeat. ALL THE TIME YOU ARE GOING UP YOU SHOULD BE THINKING ABOUT HOW YOU WILL GET DOWN.
Stand “in balance”. Hugging the rock will force your feet backward and push you off making an easy climb dangerous. Keep your legs straight up like you were walking down a side walk, this is called climbing in balance and is the most important yet counterintuitive art to learn. You may watch experience climbers on what looks like very steep dangerous rock, walking on it like it was a sidewalk, it is this technique that forces their shoes directly down onto the rock and holds them in place, lean in just a bit and they’re off.
Climbers plan a route, then execute it step by step until they arrive at the top, then they come down an easier path to the bottom. Most climbing injuries occur rappelling and experienced climbers avoid rappelling at all costs.
1. Have adequate shoes and clothes that protect your knees from abrasion.
2. Avoid loose rocks and slick rocks.
3. Rain can make an easy climb into a deadly one. Wet rock offers far less traction than dry. If its looking rainy maybe don’t climb.
4. Have a route in mind before you start. Spend time looking and thinking “how would I get down from there if I had to stop because I couldn’t go up.
5. Down climbing is a lot harder than up climbing. If you climb up the hardest rock you can find, you will not have the skill to climb down.
6. Remember rappelling is very dangerous, you need good anchors, a harness, a good rope, a brake device and training. Find an easy “walk out” instead.
7. Avoid climbing near the edge of overhangs and places where a fall could be lethal.
8. Bouldering, climbing rocks near the ground, is a good way to sprain an ankle or break your back. This is a special skill requiring climbing shoes, strong fingers, good technique, a spotter to catch you and preferably a thick mat to land on. A very short fall, even 4 feet can break and ankle or back.
9. Finally for instance the final trail to the top of Mt Whitney is narrow and very steep on each side; a slip could end your career, In such a position, turn back, don’t “Go For It”.
Jim