Hey guys, I made another thread earlier about finding light gear for a cheap price, and got 8 detailed responses very quickly, so I thought I would toss out this question really quickly.

The only sleeping bag I own right now is a Kelty Clear Creek 20+, which weighs a whopping 4.75 POUNDS ( ! )

That's pretty ridiculous, really. I found this other Kelty online that weighs more than 2 pounds less, and I can get it for about 50 bucks...

http://www.rei.com/product/747978

Once again, I know that may not be the highest quality sleeping bag, but I don't want to spend a lot.

This one obviously doesn't have as good of a temperature rating, but that's not a big deal at all as 1.) I *usually* don't go backpacking in the dead of winter and 2.) I don't get cold easily at all. I slept on some ice in 8-degree weather with no pad just to try out that 20+ and I did pretty good. Then again, I wear shorts around when it is snowing, so I must be fairly immune to it.

Also, I have GOT to get a taller sleeping bag, this one fits up to 6'6. That old Kelty was only designed to fit up to 6' and part of my shoulders still stuck out the top. I also noticed the longer one has more chest and waist room without adding a whole lot of extra weight, which is nice.

Is this a decent investment for me?

It really depends. What you've got there is a synthetic bag that should be
good down to around freezing - however (by most of our standards) it's still quite heavy. (2 lbs 14 oz.). By means of comparison, my long down bag of about the same temperature rating from MEC weighs 1 pound 9 oz . A comprable Western mountaineering bag will
weigh a bit less.

On negative side:
this bag will be bulkier, and weigh twice as much as a comparably rated "light" down bag

On the positive side
- this bag will be easier in the wet - if you get it wet, it doesn't completely lose it's insulating value. down does. you have to be careful with it.
- this bag leaves you with $120 dollars in cash more than the MEC bag I'm giving you
as an example and even more cash left than a WM -

So depends on an "investment" - you might also want to consider making yourself a primaloft quilt instead, depending on your time and inclinations. Having said that, it appears
a perfectly decent synthetic bag for a reasonable price, that if you aren't completely gram obsessed should serve you well.

I agree with Phat: decent bag at a decent price. Take the money you save and buy a good down or synthetic jacket (check out the Patagonia Micropuff jacket, to get an idea.) Or, if you sleep as warm as you say, pick up a midweight fleece jacket and pants. Wear either one to sleep in (plus your longjohns) and you'll probably stay warm if it drops below freezing unexpectedly.

As far as brands: take a look at REI and Campmor "house" brand sleeping bags, fleece, and long johns - good quality, usually at a reasonable price.

Down lasts waaaaaaaay longer than synthetic, nearly forever if cared for, and therefore may be more economical in the long run, although synthetic obviously has its strong points.

This observation is equally true for "cheap" and "expensive" bags, the differences between which I personally think it's possible to overblow.

For closeouts, don't forget Sierra Trading Post and REI Outlet.com. Sometimes they have remarkable prices.

I would question whether "cheap" down (600 weight) lasts as long as high-quality down (750+ weight). My experience is that it does not. Eventually, it will not rebound from being compressed in your pack, and this happens sooner with the lower weight down. It will also be heavier. On the other hand, getting a lower quality down bag gives you time (maybe 10 years) to save up for the lighter, higher quality stuff. A synthetic bag will be lots heavier and last maybe 5 years. If you have to charge a Western Mountaineering or similar bag on your credit card and pay it off over several years at 21% or higher interest, then forget it. If you have the cash, though, the higher quality bag is well worth it.

If you get a lower-quality bag, the shell will be heavier but probably will not be water-repellent to shed moisture from tent condensation, blowing rain and other sources. Some water-repellent spray on the outer shell will pretty well take care of this problem. Just make sure it's breathable--you do want moisture from inside (such as from your body) to go through the outer shell while you're sleeping.

Outlets to check other than the ones Johndavid mentions are backcountry.com and altrec.com. Moab Sports often has excellent prices, too. Always comparison shop before buying anything!

On a low budget, I'd go with the Campmor 20* down bag. It's really a 30* bag, but it has gotten a lot of praise from those who can't spring for a higher-priced bag. www.campmor.com.

Whatever bag you get, take good care of it--store it in a large breathable bag (not its stuff sack) or king-size pillowcase, or hanging in your closet (not compressed) or under your bed (loosely wrapped in an old sheet to keep it from collecting dust bunnies). If you're traveling long distances to and from the trailhead, wait to put it in its stuff sack until you're at (or close to) the trailhead and remove it from the stuff sack as soon as the hike is completed. The less time compressed, the longer the life of the sleeping bag, regardless of quality or type of insulation.

The 600 vs 750 equation is an interesting question & I don't know of any definite answer.

I have a duck down & feathers bag from 1971 (brand unknown) and an REI down bag, super-cheap construction, from '72 or '73. While taking scrupulously good care of them, I've used each bag a fair bit every year since purchase.

They both still work okay.

When the DD&F was new, I remember being cold one night of late August frost in a tent with partner in Sangre de Cristos. Right now 40 degrees would probably be cold for that bag.

When REI bag was new, was cold at a likely zero (a moderate cold-spell in early March near Albany, NY) with no tent on a calm night. Recently was okay at 5 degree official temp inside a shelter with bivvy & lots of clothes.

Note that my metabolism may have changed & I'm 20-30 pounds heavier.

I think it's good advice to avoid cheap down (which may have a lower percentage of actual down, and may come from younger birds), but the fill power isn't necessarily a measure of the quality of the down itself. The higher fill powers just mean that the down has been sorted to include more of the larger plumules. 600 fill power down can be of excellent quality.