Eric,

I missed you by 4 days at Indian Gardens. I hiked out the 16th, same day you went in.

Yes the mules are a PITA for hikers. Yes the wranglers do stop right in front of you when they know you're waiting for them. They (mules)literally stink and it's no fun to sidestep their excrement all over the trail. If I were king they would just go away since they benefit a relative few. But since the passenger fees are very high and they book up solid months in advance I'd say they're here to stay. I just hope the Park Service is reaping a fair percentage of the profits.

Now that I've had a taste of the less popular trails off the main corridor that's what I'll stick to next time. Much of the fun ended for me when I stepped off the West Tonto Trail and onto the Bright Angel. That's where the crowds and the mules began. Before that I hardly saw a soul and I sometimes felt I had the whole Canyon all to myself. That was an incredible experience.

And how about that (nearly) full moon? That was icing on the cake!!!!