Just to add a few more points to the suggestions already made by Carter

Quote:

Hoods:
Not many hoods actually turn with the head. Surprisingly, one of the best examples is on the Teva eVent jacket. Some stretch in the back of the neck area is also good for quickly lowering the hood without having to loosen all the adjustements. Also, many hoods have decidedly floppy brims. Arc'Teryx is probably the best of the North American-designed brands, but I much prefer the UK tradition of having a wire stiffened brim.

I agree with the wire but it should be made in such a way that you don't have to shape it first. I've seen wired hoods which need shaping after having been stowed in a pack to get the correct archlike shape of the brim. Also, Arc'teryx used to include some sort of fabric stiffener in its hoods. Unfortunately, they don't do that anymore but a combination of a wired and stiffened brim seems ideal to prevent floppy constructions.
Also, I like something like the Arc'teryx speed hood system with adjustment only at the back of your head and with no adjustment in front of your face. I also prefer the Arc'teryx storm hood design like used in their Alpha shells because it offers better coverage and protection.


Quote:

Cuffs:
The recent trend to eliminate elastic from cuffs produces a lighter, more durable, and quicker drying garment, but it also makes for a looser seal. The move to hard Velcro tabs makes it easier to grab the adjuster, and should be continued. My biggest complaint with most jackets is that the cuff openings aren't wide enough to provide effective ventilation--or allow for one to push the cuffs up to the elbows.

Extra features next to the hard velcro cuffs and wide cuff openings could be a little bit of mechanical stretch and a slight assymetrical cuff design that gives a bit more coverage a the back of the wrist.

Quote:

Chest Pockets:
Having large pockets with wide openings is essential, but little thought seems to be given to how easy they are to open/close when the wearer is seated--the material billows out, forcing the zipper to take a curved shape away from the body. The best chest pocket design I know of is found on some Arc'Teryx jackets and the old Patagonia Torre: straight zips into pleated pockets. The pleats allow for expansion of the pocket without using excess fabric..

pockets should be lined with a lightweight, very breathable but still somewhat weatherresistant material (e.g. stretch woven fabric).

Quote:

Drawcords:
I vastly prefer hem and hood adjustments that are accessed through the pockets, leaving no cords to whap you in the face or get caught on ice axes, ski poles, or chairlifts. The foam adjusters that Patagonia uses on hood drawcords are brilliant--light weight, soft, and with no moving parts to break, but still easy to use.

if no pockets are available, I prefer the hem adjustment to be positioned next to the zipper like in the Arc'teryx Sirrus SL.


Further:
* fluid running waterepellent/waterproof zips to dispense with the need for flaps and with zipper pockets.
* articulated sleeve design to prevent rising up of the jacket. Sleeves shoudl be long enough.
* 3D design using the least possible number of panels, still giving an excellent fit while minimising the number of seams
* very narrow seam tollerances, making very narrow seam taping possible or even no seam taping at all in case of certain welding methods
* fabric: something like eVENT or better
* really durable water repellency (perhaps something like the Ion mask treatment or the treatment developed by the Oak Ridge National Laboratory) which keeps on working after days and weeks of rain.
* the light and abrasion resistant (stretch) woven lining like used in the Gore Pro Shell jackets
* face fabrics which are really hydrophobic in nature unlike nylon. If possible with some mechanical stretch if that doesn't have a negative impact on other performance factors.
* ventilation openings that can be opened with one hand
* lightweight (10 oz. range)