I hiked the Kalalau back in 2012 with my family (wife and two teenage sons). That was one of my favorite adventures, right up there with the JMT.

1. Looking at my packing list and thinking back we didn't use anything special to protect our food from critters. I think we just used a stuff sack and hung it on a low branch.

2. Yes bugs, we used deet and head nets.

3. If memory serves me correct there were three river crossings. Hanakapiai, Hanakoa, and one just before Kalalau. Because the trail was muddy anyways, I didn't take my hiking shoes off and just tromped right through each water crossing.

I will say, this hike is an ass kicker, but I'd do it again in a second. The views are amazing, just make sure you stop hiking before you appreciate them. Seriously, at times the trail is little more than a goat path clinging to the hill side with a wonderful drop into the ocean. Also, at least back in 2012, the pit toilets stunk worse than any smell you could imagine. Oh and keep your eyes peeled for all the Avocado trees along the trail. I dream of getting back there again in the near future.