Wonderful --- thanks for all of the useful details!

My wife and I contemplate some South American time next year, to include at least some sort of exposure to Patagonia if possible. My daughter had a summer job in Chile some years ago, so we had thought of doing it from that side, but have done zero research thus far. My daughter never made it to Patagonia per se; the places I recall her recommending were Bariloche (Argentina), Valparaiso (Chile), and parks on three hills (Cerros) in Santiago de Chile.

My spanish is pretty good, but definitely not fluent. I think you have to live/immerse in a language to get close to really fluent. But pretty comfortable, conversational. So I'm thinking that while in some places it might make sense to be on a "tour" (Inca trail in Peru maybe??), I'd just as soon do what it sounds like you did --- sort it out yourself for less $$, more flexibility ("stay in line, keep clear of the scary natives, follow the upraised umbrella ...").

Anyway, I very much appreciate the details in your post --- thanks.