As with most gear, you can spend as much or as little as you like. For example, I know people who use Swedish Military white cotton jackets in place of an Empire Canvas anorak. Lots of people use military surplus wool pants, in fact Empire Canvas says on their web site that they can't make a better pair of pants than you can get from a surplus store. Wool commando sweaters are a bargain. Plans exist to make most of the gear if you are handy and have the time. Hardcore winter gear is a very small market, so many of the companies are quite small and obscure.