Hey, good for you Phat!! You beat the ebay market by about 300%.
Yeah I know. I didn't even haggle. when I asked if it worked the fellow selling all the stuff said "I dunno". It was covered in dust, sitting on a table with with some ratty sleeping bags and a old canvas canadian army ruck, It looks like the brass has been blackening up for well, I dunno. 30-40 years? but no dents.
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My older Svea has the original pricker but I've chosen to never use it. Reason is, the jet is soft brass and the pricker is hardened piano wire. So, instead I use mono-filament or a little piece of 28ga. copper wire. Both work fine....however, I can only remember doing this once. The things don't get all that dirty. Have fun with your new/old classic stove! I love the C-130 analogy...yer right!
Well, I can always sell it on ebay if it doesn't do me better than my whisperlight this winter <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
Interestingly, it perfectly fits in an old anoidized aluminium pot set I have.
having put it on the scale, it weighs 23 oz with a full tank of fuel. My Whisperlight and bottle weighs 25oz with the same amount of fuel in it! while it's not light - it aint heavy, not for a snow melter!
I remember having some difficulty priming mine in scouts, but perhaps that was the impatience of youth (the same impatience that made me get rid of my "old" stove at the time for a "new" coleman like the other kids had). This one seems to prime very easily, even when left outside here. It hit just below freezing last night for the low, and I left it in the garden shed overnight. This morning I primed it up and lit it with a little bit of alcohol without any difficulty. I'll practice a bit when it gets colder.
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ps...did it come with the cup and valve key?
Yes, came with the windscreen/stand, cup, valve key chained to the stem, and the handle for the cup
Well, should you decide you don't like it, I wish to be first on the list to buy it from you. Those old Sveas work better than the later model 123R's.
Priming.....my favotite way is to carry a nose spray bottle, with the straw removed, full of camp gas (cold weather) or alcohol. Let it sit with camp gas for a week to make sure the plastic is fuel resistant. Those big nasal saline bottles work best. Squirt a stream in the cup and all over the burner. Light. Listen for the "hiss". Turn the key. Your fuel squirter also makes a snazzy fire starter option for wood cook fires. I use that bottle for priming Svea's and R-8's. One stays in the R-8 box.
Well, should you decide you don't like it, I wish to be first on the list to buy it from you. Those old Sveas work better than the later model 123R's.
Don't hold your breath. Unless it encrusts itself up every year like my whisperlight I'm pretty sure you may be outta luck on that front - unless you wanna buy a whisperlight that the jet needs cleaning on <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
And thanks for the ideas. a bit of fly tippet seems to be the right size for the jet, and I may use your nose bottle idea too. I already modified it last night using a strip of fibreglass wick that I used to make alky stoves - wrapped it up around the stem to act as a wick in the right place for the prime. - seems to work - but I'll reserve my verdict for truly cold weather, not a mere refreshing frost.
The FDA gets really upset about things like gasoline in medication containers. You better paint it or wrap it in blue tape or something so you or someone doesn't accidentally inhale it! Jim
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These are my own opinions based on wisdom earned through many wrong decisions. Your mileage may vary.
The FDA gets really upset about things like gasoline in medication containers. You better paint it or wrap it in blue tape or something so you or someone doesn't accidentally inhale it! Jim
Whats the fun in that??? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> (with the straw gone, it won't squirt, much, rightside up.)
Yeah, you see those FDA rangers on the trail all the time! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
Sorry, Jim; couldn't resist. But I will echo your warning about doing something to the bottle to identify it. The ID isn't necessary on the trail, so much, but since your gear spends a lot of time laying around the house, it does serve a safety purpose there. It might keep someone from accidentally using it, or from seeing an empty container that would be just right for syrup, ketchup, etc. - unaware that it's contaminated with gas residue.
Just a bump and a note about this old SVEA now that it's winter up here.
Had him out a couple of times on daytrips in -20 up here making coffee and lunches, melting snow. So far been very good to me. I did clean him out and disassemble and everything.
One thing I noticed and corrected was that the control valve would leak ever so slightly when the stove was on. You wouldn't notice except for a slight smell, or, if you put flame near it you'd get a candle size flame around the control valve. After some disassembly and cleaning, a little wrap of teflon tape around the back end threads of the valve, as well as round the threads of the valve seating for good measure not only sealed it up nicely but makes the valve turn nice and smoooooth. This has also corrected the slight smell of gas I'd notice when opening up my GSI potset when I carried the stove inside. Teflon tape is wonderful technology.
All in all, I'm pretty happy with it for winter - not nearly the BTU's as my whisperlite[1], but more than enough. less "fiddling" and easier to pack than my whisperlite, simmers great and most interestingly - doesn't stink! - I don't have to endure the smell of a long sooty shutoff and stink when shutting down.
[1] normally referred to by me as a whisperloud, but in the context of the other stove in this discussion that isn't really fair <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
I wonder if the yellow Teflon tape (for natural gas & propane home appliances) would be a better choice than white water pipe Teflon tape. (?)
Or the yellow gas pipe paste may work well too, with no fear of melting when hot, as in Teflon tape.
Eric
Possibly, however, I used the white stuff for this, and it seems to have held up just fine. I did test it by holding a lighter under it for a while wrapped arount the stem - the heat didn't seem to to much to the white teflon tape I have. While the stem on a svea of course gets hot, it's not like it gets red hot or anything.. I suppose time will tell.
I gave my -bottom rusted- Peak 1 to a fellow Peak 1 user. He scavenged parts and prolonged the life of his stove. But sadly its passed away some time ago. Another dead soldier, gone, but not forgotten. (hand over heart, tear in eye)
I retired mine when I got the MSR-G, the first stove substantially lighter than a Svea. I also have a GS-? the government version of the Svea, a tad heavier but with built in cleaning and repair tools. I added to the Svea and the 8-R (which saw more use because of alleged stability) the small pump you see mentioned here. If you are addicted to the Svea, the pump is worth the lack of hastle.
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