I handled the down this way: I used a cardboard box, maybe 16"x19"x16"deep and taped a piece of plastic over the open top, leaving just enough room to insert my hands. I put the down in the box, and sorted through the down, removing any pinfeathers and/or debris.

Then, within the box, I filled a small plastic bag (I think I used a small bread sack) with down, closed the bag with the little plastic fastener, weighed it on a postal scale, then adjusted the amount of down as needed.

I inserted about half of the open end of the sack in the down chamber, then turned the sack inside out to release the down. A yardstick or dowel is useful in turning it inside out. Then, gently shook the bag to distribute the down, and added a bit more if needed. Then pinned it shut, and went on to the next one.

The seam spacing seems kind of large to me, unless maybe you're using the karo step type. If using the more common horizontal method, it should be more like 6". The larger the spacing, the more it will bulge out, and the more down it will require to ensure that there's enough down to minimize shifting.

Incidentally, for clarity of communication, a sewn-through bag doesn't have "baffles." The baffle is the mesh strip sewn between the inner and outer.

Later: It just occurred to me that what you want is 1" of average loft, and since the sewn-through seams have zero loft, you'll need the thickness in the middle of the chamber to be something more than 1". I'm guessing about 2", depending on the spacing of the seams.


Edited by Bill Kennedy (01/09/21 07:22 PM)
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