More Crampon Questions - attachment systems

I saw the previous thread on this topic, but have a few more questions. Sorry for the long preamble...the actual question is at the bottom of the post.

I just got back from a 3-day Intro to Mountaineering class and I'm looking to buy a pair of crampons. I know how to self-arrest with an ice axe, french technique etc. I also own a pretty sliced up pair of breathable pants. Now they're even more breathable. Hah!!

In my class, I used crampons with front points for ice climbing and high angle hiking over ice, rock, and snow. My intended use will be 3k and 4k climbs in the white mountains of NH and the Long Trail in VT, plus a lot of skill practice for the rest of the winter. That means some easy ice climbing, icy trails, and snow covered trail walking.

I have a pair of Scarpa Omega Plastic Boots.

In my class, I used a pair of crampons, with front points, that had a metal bar that rested on the front of my boot soles and then clicked on in the back. However, in searching the web for crampons, it appears that most manufacturers use a rubber loop over the toes instead.

Are there advantages or disadvantages for either of these attachment systems?

thx,

Earlylite
http://sectionhiker.com

Advantage for step-in bindings on crampons: easier to attach to boots. Disadvantage: can pop off easily if they don't mate well with boots.

Advantage for strap bindings: More secure attachment. Disadvantage: straps can freeze and are difficult to adjust with gloves and when wet.

MNS

Great answer, but I'm still scratching my head. If I can find step-in crampons that fit my boots well, should I go with them over strap-ons? I like that snapping sound.

What would you advise for an aggressive beginner?

Thx,

Earlylite
http:/sectionhiker.com

I would say that if you are ALWAYS going to wear the same boots when you're in conditions where you'll use your crampons, that I think I'd go for the step in bindings. One advantage of strap ons that I failed to mention is that they can be used with any boot, where step-in tend to be picky about footwear. I may be wrong, but I think Step-in are also designed for rigid soled boots, where strap-ons can be hinged and work with flex-sole boots.

MNS

Ok thanks. I *will* always be wearing these boots and they are super rigid, double plastics.

You've responded to some of my earlier posts and given me great advice every time.

Thank you!

vous êtes les bienvenus

Enjoy your new skills!

I always tied my crampons on with a length of quality parachute cord, even after the step in bindings came along. It was quicker and stronger than the straps and buckles and more reliable than the step-ins with which I have had experience. I would usually finishing tying on my crampons several minutes ahead of my strap and buckle colleagues. It is cheap enough to be worth a try.

earlylight

Two - four reasons for step ins: The reason climbers slept with their crampons on and got severe frost bite was because tying on your crampons, in the morning, might take more energy than you have, especially at high altitude, so they left them on. Sleeping bags had canvas lined bottoms so they wouldn't be sliced up. Step ins are faster, probably more securely attached than strap ons, and often they add rigidity to the boot.

Jim

Thanks all for the advice -I went with the step-ins, primarily because they're faster to put on.

There is a case to be made for strap-ons, but I don't need the flexibility to be able to wear crampons with different boots. My seasons/boot selections are pretty binary.

Hi,
some more points:
disadvantage of step in crampons that is that they only work with special designed boots, but cannot attached to others. They also fall off if you manage to destroy the front part of the boots (e.g. because of walking/climbing).

I have checked your HP to find some more details about the planned usage (found mt. Washington). Based on this you don´t really need such crampons. We normally use such crampons only for steep ice (icefalls, north faces).
I own several pairs of crampons and use the following combination:

Summer, glacier, maybe max 50° in few parts -> La Sportiva Nepal Evo / Grivel Airtech "new matic"

Summer, north face -> La Sportiva nepal Evo / Charlet Moser M10

Winter, north face, ice climbing -> Scarpa Alpha / Charlet Moser M10.

If needed, I can attach the Grivel to my softer boots. If possible, I avoid the M10 because they weight more than then Grivel Airtech.

Becks