Light Leather Ankle Boots

Not really a "Make Your Own Gear" question, but I'm rebuilding some boots. I just got my old gortex lined leather ankle boots restitched and they feel great, but are in serious need of traction so I am going to canabalize my trail runners. I will try and get a photo up. These ankle boots are a very light, and the leather is flexible but very durable, and the goretex liner seems to have held up well. They are pretty simple and weigh just under a pound each for size 12. There is a small leather logo on the back that reads H.M.O. and a small metal tag on the side that says "Goretex". I think I got them 25 years ago in Victoria BC around the time that Goretex first came out. Anyhow, I am going to try to resole them with my trail runners. The trail runners uppers hold too much water, but they have good traction. Not sure what rubber glue might be best for cold temperatures. Would Shoe Goo work?

Has anyone heard of H.M.O boots, from the early 1980s?

Not sure if Shoe Goo works but if it's tenacious enough it very well may. I would grind to old sole down to where all the lugs are gone. I have a pair of boots that I like very much but are worn at the heel and the front leaving the arch area almost unworn. I have had shoes resoled in the past but have never had a rubber sole done. Another adhesive that I like very much is Goop. I use it for everything. Sold in Home Depot/Lowes etc. they used to carry several different kinds, eg. Plumber goop, outdoor goop. Now I only see Plumber goop. I think it is all the same product packaged for different markets. Let us know how your resole goes. I might try to do mine. Hey, I wonder if someone sells soles?

The strongest glue for what you propose is 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive, known affectionately as "Yellow Peril". It is a single part contact adhesive with good flex. It is called "Yellow Peril" because you only have one chance to get the parts to be joined straight. If you missalign them, that's it. It will not release. There is no repositioning time. But when you join two things with it, they are joined until the sun goes out.

The second choice is what shoe repair shops use for attaching soles - a rubber-based, single part adhesive. Barge's Cement is probably the best.

In both cases, make sure the parts are super clean and then whack them together with a mallet after joining them. That is a very important step to insuring a good bond.

Goop and Shoe Goo are the same thing. They will peel off.

Or, you can just take them to a shoe repair and have them grind down the old soles and glue the new ones on. They also sell new soles. I had them do it on a pair of combat boots, and it only cost me around $45 with the new soles. You will have to find the local repair shop.

I have made a few pair of shoes over the years.

go to your local cobbler, failing one, go to a shoe repair place, ASK them for enough glue to do the job. buy a new sole from them, clean both surfaces, apply glue, when tacky, stick the new soles to the boots, apply pressure, wait, and you are done with the glue is set and dry.


If you really want to canabilze the running shoes, go for it! If they do not match in size you will be fine if they are wider/longer.. you can whittle them down with a good sharp knife...

robi

Thanks for all the feedback and helpful suggestions.