High Water in Yosemite
June 6-8, 2010
The Merced River was predicted to be at flood stage in Yosemite and June 5-6 was a park “free entrance” weekend. Could not ask for more! Getting started proved a comedy of logistical errors. I reached the Big Oak entrance 15 minute after the permit office closed. I had failed to remember that I could have picked up a permit until 9PM at the Hetch Hetchy entrance. The entrance station staff said the Valley Wilderness Office was staying open until 7:30 for the “free” weekend. Although I know better than to believe what I was told, I drove the 25 miles only to find “closed” on the door of the office. I told my sad story to the ranger at the nearby Visitor Center (not helpful at all) and he sent me to the campground reservation post (which was closed). Eight PM and no permit in hand I had to choose to illegally stay in the Backpackers Campground (which was partially flooded so require a long walk to reach) or head back up the road to camp on adjacent Forest Service land. Disgruntled, I headed back up the 25-mile road, but I did get some nice late-day lighting photos.
Photo 1. Yosemite Falls and the flooded valley floor
Next morning I was up at dawn and headed back to the Valley, getting a few really nice early morning photos. The Wilderness Office opened at 8AM and it took nearly an hour to get a permit. First we all had to listen to a much-too-lengthy LNT talk from a new employee. Next the first groups in line did not know where to go and the staff did not seem to care how much this backed up everyone else. Once I reached the desk (I am already in their computer database), it took less than five minutes to get a permit; all trails were open since few wanted to deal with snowy and watery trails. After parking and taking the shuttle bus to Happy Isles, I was on the trail at 9:30 and it was already hot. I quickly hiked up the Mist Trail (much shorter than the John Muir Trail) and got fabulously soaked by Vernal Falls. I love this trail and the Merced River was putting on quite a show. I quickly dried out at Emerald Pool and walked up through light spray of Nevada Falls.
Photo 2. Vernal Falls
Photo 3. Nevada Falls
When I reached Little Yosemite Valley I opened my pack to get my clipper to cut off a jagged toenail, and to my surprise, could not find my entire ditty-bag! It had fallen out of the pack into my very messy car trunk. I now had no first aid kit, no toothpaste and brush (I wiped my teeth with a kerchief), no watch, no hair brush (the sporke worked quite well), no wash wipes (I became sticky and stinky), no headlamp (no need), and what turned out the most serious, no Advil (oh, those aches at night), and no allergy medicine (most definitely needed). Luckily I put sunscreen, kerchiefs and toilet paper in the pack’s top pocket. The two miles up Little Yosemite Valley were an obstacle course. Conditions were extremes. On a dry spots a rattlesnake scurried away; where flooded I either waded bone-chilling water or detoured on logs. I finally reached the first bridge. I contemplated camping this very nice spot but it was too early to stop. Walking over some snowy avalanche debris, I continued up the very nice trail admiring the rock work.
Photo 4. Rattlesnake
Photo 5. First bridge across the Merced
Now I reached the second bridge at the outlet from Echo Valley to find both ramps flooded so again waded up to the bridge. For the next mile, at least half I walked through icy knee-deep water; shoes went off and on. When feet got numb, I stood on hummocks to warm them. Finally out of the water, the trail ascended towards Merced Lake. I found what I thought was the perfect site with a great view of the roaring Merced River. After setting up the tent I realized the site was swarming with biting sugar ants that got on everything. As I was getting water, two young men who stood in line at the Permit Office walked by heading for Merced Lake. They were surprised to see me (They took the much longer John Muir Trail to Little Yosemite Valley) and had wading adventures – even fell in, but still were in good spirits. Off they went to Merced Lake. I personally prefer to camp on the rocky benches just short of the Lake. Back at my tent, I realized that I had to move, so I packed up again, unpacked a few hundred yards away to shake off all ants and then continued to an ant-free spot. By this time it was dusk. Fortunately there were no mosquitoes but all the pollen in the air finally hit me; I had a massive allergy attack. I slept little as my eyes swelled shut, I sneezed became totally stuffed up when I lay down. This misery went on almost all night.
Photo 6. Second bridge across the Merced
Photo 7. Roaring Merced River falls to Echo Valley
Next morning I hiked to Merced Lake and photographed the raging Merced River. Back at camp I packed up and again waded to the trail junction in Echo Valley. The water had dropped over a foot making the morning wade much easier. Here I met a couple from Austria who had attempted to wade but failed. They evidently could not tolerate the numb feet and did not have wading shoes. I took the higher trail that intersects the John Muir Trail back to Nevada Falls. In retrospect, simply going back down the Merced River would have been much more scenic. The path I chose was not very scenic, except for a few nice views early on. My allergy was now in full swing and I was miserable. Snow covered some of the John Muir Trail but all crossings of Sunrise Creek were on logs. I waded on side-creek at the Clouds Rest junction where I stuck my head in the creek to wash my itching eyes. Back at Little Yosemite Valley, I must have looked quite miserable because two concerned young men asked if I was OK. I simply asked them the time (it was 3:30PM). At Nevada Falls I again looked over the edge at the railed viewpoint and headed up the Panorama Trail to the junction with the trail heading up towards Star King. Here I picked up water and set up my tent where I had a front-door view of Half Dome. After dinner I walked around realizing that I set up near a group of dead trees but after determining their lean-direction and not able to find another spot, I simply remained and took the chance. There was no wind, thankfully.
Photo 8. Merced Lake
Photo 9. Swift water below Merced Lake.
Photo 10. View from higher trail.
On the third day I returned to the Panorama Trail and within an hour was crossing the bridge over Illouette Creek, also a mass of white water spraying the bridge. The trail then climbs nearly 1,000 feet to Glacier Point. Having been on this trail before, I found the one and only spot with a view of Illouette Falls. I met several day-hikers and one British women backpacker. The poor lady was sent on a very uninspiring trail by the rangers so we chatted several minutes regarding other possibilities. I ate lunch at Glacier Point enjoying what I think is the best view in Yosemite. By now busloads of tourist were being dropped off. Then I headed down the Four Mile Trail to the valley. This is a seriously strenuous trail. I met what seemed like a hundred day-hikers going up, many of whom I guess would have considerable difficult either making the top or getting down. I am always amazed at what some people can do in flip-flops! About half down the trail I again had a massive allergy attack. I arrived at the road tears rolling down my cheeks from swollen eyes, nose running profusely and dunked my head in a side creek. I caught the shuttle bus to Curry Village back to my car, found the ditty bag, chugged down antihistamine and paid $5 for a shower and brushed my teeth. I immediately felt better. My car was literally covered in yellow dust; no wonder I was so miserable! Other than a logistical mess at the start and allergy miseries, it was a fine trip of about 12 miles each day with lots of steep ups and downs – all worth it to experience the Merced River in flood stage.
Photo 11. Illiouette Falls
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