I used the search function to try to find a thread dedicated to layering clothes, but I didn't get any results. I've seen a couple of scattered comments here and there, but I haven't seen a thread dedicated to the subject. I apologize if one exists and I didn't see it.

I don't know much of anything about proper trail attire. I used to wear heavy cotton camo pants, or pants that I'd cut the legs off of to make shorts, and a concert t-shirt; nice white cotton boxers and sox; and, in the fall, a thick cotton sweatshirt. Obviously this is just all wrong.

There are so many brands and so many fabrics that I don't know where to begin. Is merino wool different from other wool? Are some synthetics lighter, or more durable, than others? Are some features really important and other just a marketing gimmick?

I assume you professionals have a layering system. Perhaps you could enlighten us noobs with your:

Favorite brand

Favorite material

Favorite summer top

Favorite base layer winter top

Favorite base layer winter bottom

Favorite mid-layer winter top

Favorite mid-layer winter bottom


I've learned a lot since I started coming here a month or so ago. Thank you.

What I do is I use a very light weight synthetic base layer that I could actually strip down to and be pretty comfortable. This must be something that breathes well and has the ability to dry very quickly. Then on top of that I use either a 100 WT. or a 200 Wt. Polartec Fleece (100 or 200 depending on the temps..) for the mid-layer. I can go like that as long as there are no real strong cold winds or if I get hit by rain and then I have a shell that I can throw over the base and mid-layer to keep the wind off me and to keep me dry too... A water proof hat will really help out too if you are forced to walk in a down-pour...sabre11004...

The first step that you take will be of those that get you there !!!!!

I really like my Icebreaker merino wool tops as baselayers. The great thing about them is that they don't absorb body odors like my synthetic tops do. I even wear them in the early summer for that reason. I know I will get some back sweating from the pack and I don't want to stink so a short sleeve Icebreaker works great. As it gets on to high summer I switch back into synthetics because they wick a little better than wool.

As far as bottoms and midlayers I'm still experimenting.

I can't speak for the professionals, but I can probably mislead you as well as anyone else.

A lot of what any of us do about layers depends greatly on the weather conditions we typically walk in - there is no one, single, mandatory system for everyone. I walk in the Ohio Valley area, mostly, with some trips to Isle Royale, Shenandoah, and Grayson Highlands/Mt. Rogers thrown in, so what I describe will be what works for me.

The general theory of layering (which assumes cool or cold weather) is a wicking layer, then an insulating layer, then a weather-resistant shell layer. An "unofficial" layer is the warm-weather clothing layer. Some of these things are in your pack, to be put on as needed. (Colin Fletcher's book The Complete Walker has a very thorough description of this.)

There are three things that are permanently in my pack: a spare pair of socks, a rain jacket, and rain pants. The rain gear is waterproof-breathable, which means it doubles as a windbreaker and, on the rare occasions I need them, long pants.

In the summer around here, I wear nylon shorts with a mesh liner (like a swimsuit), with a very thin synthetic (wicking) T-shirt. That eliminates the need to carry spare clothing, including spare underwear, for a weekend. They dry quickly (yep, I've fallen when crossing a creek), and are reasonably cool and comfortable. The synthetic T-shirt elimiantes that "chill" you sometimes get when you're sweaty, stop to rest, and a breeze hits you. I never wear long pants; I find shorts cooler and more comfortable. I've found that a pair of longjohn bottoms under them, or my rainpants over them (or both, when it's cold) are just as functional as long pants.

As we move into fall, I stick a pair of midweight wool longjohns (bottoms and a zip-turtleneck top) in my pack; if it's a little cooler, I'll wear the bottoms under my shorts and/or the turtleneck over the T-shirt. That's my wicking layer. Depending on the forecast, I might also stick a light down-filled jacket in. (That's the insulating layer.) A word about fabrics seems appropriate here. I chose merino wool for no particular reason than I like it better; however, I've used synthetics quite successfully. I have no idea what the difference is between "wool" and "merino wool." I chose the down jacket instead of midweight fleece (say, Polartec 200) or a synthetic-insulation jacket because it's a few ounces lighter, more compressible, and I just like it. Pile, synthetic insulation, and down are equally functional in my neck of the woods. However, if you'll regularly walk where it's wet and rainy, you'll probably want to avoid down since it absorbs moisture more easily (even if it doesn't get wet directly from rain), and loses all its insulating ability when wet.

As it gets really cold, I add a heavier, hooded down sweater (a Polartec 300 layer or heavier insulated jacket would work equally well.) I also toss a pair of light down pants into my pack, completing the insulating layer. Again, fleece or sythetic insulation would work, too. I'm unusual, around here, in carrying the down pants; I rarely if ever hike in them for more than an hour early in the morning - I get too hot. The main reasons I carry them are that they feel good in camp, while I'm cooking and eating, and that they let me get by with a lighter sleeping bag. By wearing the down pants and jacket inside my 30-degree bag, I stay nice and warm in 15 degree weather (inside a tent), and don't have to carry a heavier, 15 or 20 degree bag.

For accessories, I wear a pair of wool liner gloves (inside a pair of fleece-lined mitten shells, if necessary), and a thin, wool wicking stocking cap while hiking. I carry (and wear as necessary) a wool neck gaiter (which I can use as a neck warmer, additional hat layer, or face mask.)If I'm planning to push the limit of my sleeping bag by wearing the down garments in it, I might also toss a pair of down mittens and down booties in my pack.

I'm sure others have different systems, and my system wouldn't be adequate in the mountains in winter (or in northern Michigan or Minnesota, for that matter.) But I rarely hike in conditions where nighttime lows fall below 25 (I stay home if it's colder), and I don't have to deal with 90-degree days with 40-degree nights like you'd have in the desert, either.

So, think first about what kind of conditions you hike in, then put together a system that works for you, using as few pieces as possible. Generally, you'll want to avoid cotton - it actually induces hypothermia when it gets wet - though a lot of people use it in summer around here.

Hope this helps.

Thank you for your thorough post, Glenn. That helps a lot.

Glad I could help; as I tell the participants at the seminars I teach, I can commit malpractice with the best of them!

Herber makes an excellent point about one of the nasty sides of hiking - the stink ! Wool has worked incredibly well for me in maintaining both comfort and body odor.

Perhaps it's just me, but when I wear synthetics, I notice a very pungent/tingy smell after sweating in them for a while. That smell drives me absolutely bonkers! When I wear wool, the stink is reduced significantly. I like wearing cashmere as a base layer, and as a mid layer when necessary. For summer, I have a wool t-shirt, but I often find myself still wearing the cashmere into mid-day.

Layering is completely dependent on your likes, dislikes, and surrounding conditions. With that in mind, this is how I currently like to layer (from base layer to outer layer):

• For cold weather: cashmere sweater, cashmere sweater, fleece vest(collar up), fleece hoody, and down jacket.
• For mild weather: merino wool t-shirt, cashmere sweater, fleece hoody, windbreaker/rain shell.

I can't say enough good things about cashmere. It may not work for everyone, but it should definitely be worth a try for most.

• Pros: fast drying, good wicking ability, low odor, warm, reasonably lightweight, very soft.
• Cons: poor durability, shrink problems, cost(sometimes).

If you want to be able to wash and dry it (in a dryer), you must get a BIG size! I typically wear a size M before washing a sweater. The cashmere sweater that I regularly wash and dry is a size XXL, which fits me loosely now.

I just picked up a new cashmere sweater at Old Navy about a week ago for $10. I'm an addict, since I think that last purchase brought my cashmere tally is up to 8! I bought one for my father last year, but he just can't get it in his head to wear it as a base layer. On the other hand, I caught him wearing it for Thanksgiving!

We all have our vices don't we?
Eric

Well, it depends *very* much on what I am doing, and what the temperature is.

Have a look at my usual gear list linked through my signature and you'll tell something from what I am carrying "three season" - but basically, in non-winter conditions, I usually wear a synthetic boxer brief type undershort and a pair of convertible pants while hiking. on top I start with a synthetic T shirt. As I am moving, and active, typically I will only put over that possibly a merino wool long sleeve shirt. and/or a 100wt fleece in the event of rain, and a windshirt - top it off with a poncho if it gets really ugly. This is enough when it's reasonably warm out and I am moving. When I *stop* I put on a midweight long john bottom, possibly under the pants or by itself, and then layer up with another wool shirt (I always take two) and an insulating layer, usually a primaloft pullover.

Winter's a bit different. I'm always wearing a base layer of
a synthetic mid long john bottom, and the T and two merino wool shirts. On top of that I typically layer in cashemere sweaters and fleece. I get cheap as dirt "old man" cashmere sweaters at the second hand store. If it's brutally cold am usually moving in a pair of heavy wool pants with suspenders,
often then only layered up with the above base, one or two sweaters (more if it's colder!) and an anorack type jacket overtop. When I STOP in winter, I change out into unsweated 300 wt fleece bottoms with shell pants, a new fleece as needed and then a big ol' down parka. I don't walk or move in down because I will sweat it and myself to death.

Here's my slightly different layering system used because I burn easily, hike in bug country, run hot when khiking and cold when I stop.

In summer:
Capilene boxers
Mountain Hardware Canyon pants (I hike in long pants all the time for bug and sun reasons)
Nylon, long sleeved fishing shirt (see above)
Thorlo socks
Boonie Hat
bring a fleece windstopper jacket and rain jacket

Cooler weather:
Mid weight Capilene top under either the nylon shirt or a heavier polyester 1/2 zip t-neck
same bottoms as summer or with mid weight Capilene long underwear underneath
smart wool socks
Bring rain jacket and pants, fleece windstopper jacket, wool hat, liner gloves, and maybe a down sweater.

Winter
Midweight Capilene tops and bottoms
polyester 1/2 zip t-neck
soft shell pants
wind jacket
liner socks and smart wool or rag wool socks
mukluks
wool hat
liner gloves
Bring, down jacket, 200 weight fleece full zip pants, 200 weight fleece jacket, GTX pants and jacket, light balaclava or fleece neck gaiter, fleece gloves with thinsulate lined mitten shells.

First, your questions about fabrics. For a base layer and for underwear (if you wear it), you want a very thin, loose-weave layer of knit synthetic or merino wool next to your skin. The idea is to wick not only sweat but "insensible" moisture, which your skin produces even when you aren't sweating, away from your skin. Synthetic wicking fabrics (various kinds of knit polyester or polypropylene) are less expensive, but they tend to become pretty ripe after days of wear. Using baking soda or borax in the wash water helps to keep the stench from becoming permanent. Polypro was the standard for a long time, but recent advances in polyester make it just as wicking and have also added treatments to resist the stench. Polypro melts, or at least becomes harsh, in the clothes dryer, so polyester is better for those not careful about their laundry practices. Note that you should never use fabric softener when laundering any wicking layer because it reduces the wicking properties by partially blocking the fabric pores. Both these fabrics are extremely fast-drying, polypro more so than polyester.

Merino wool, the natural base-layer fabric, comes from a special breed of sheep, recognizable by their many deep skin folds, that produces an unusually fine and soft wool. Unlike normal wool (which I can't stand next to my skin), it feels soft, not scratchy, and doesn't itch. Merino sheep have always been around; they are an ancient European breed originally from Spain. They were never a popular breed because their many large skin folds are not practical on the western ranges (where most US sheep used to be raised) and make it harder to shear the sheep. I don't know where merino wool was used before it recently became popular for base layers and socks, but until recently I never before encountered it in hiking clothes. It's more expensive than synthetic and doesn't wear quite as well. Unlike synthetics, it does absorb some moisture, but it feels warm and dry even when damp. It also doesn't retain body odor as synthetics do. I ran a test last fall with a pair of Smartwool socks and a pair of Thorlo synthetic (mostly acrylic) socks of equal thickness. After laundering, the Smartwool socks air-dried at least an hour faster and, when still a bit damp, felt far less clammy inside than did the Thorlo socks.

The insulating layer (middle layer) requires something fluffy that traps lots of dead air (which is what really does the insulating). The most used insulating fabrics are either polyester fleece or a combination of polyester batting inside a very thin breathable nylon shell. The first is heavier and the latter is quite a bit more expensive. You can find good fleece garments in any big-box store or your local thrift store. IMHO there's no point in spending big $$$ for the very pricey fleece found in hiking/climbing stores (North Face, etc.). Just hold it up to the light to make sure there are no thin spots. Campmor's house brand fleece garments are modestly priced and excellent. Polyester fleece comes in 100-weight (light), 200-weight (medium) and 300-weight ( heavy). I haven't tried "windproof" fleece, but I'm told it's heavier and slower drying. I personally prefer a couple of lighter insulating layers to one heavy layer for more accurate regulation of body temperature. One important principle of cold-weather hiking is to avoid sweating (which soon leads to chilling), which means shedding layers when moving and adding them back when sitting still--I call it the "onion principle." Wool as an insulation layer is fine, too, but definitely heavier. Since the insulating layer is not against your bare skin, expensive merino wool isn't necessary--just your average garden-variety wool sweater. Some like a down insulating jacket, but it absorbs more sweat (you probably won't wear this layer while actually moving anyway, because you want to avoid sweating). A down jacket might be more appropriate for winter conditions since it's lighter and warmer. Since I use a down sleeping bag, I personally like to hedge my bets by using synthetic insulating clothing. In Midwest conditions in summer, I suspect that a 100-weight polyester fleece jacket is probably the most you'd need.

Many people like to use a lightweight wind shirt for windy conditions or for very light rain (i.e. fog and drizzle). This is usually made out of a thin nylon material with some kind of Durable Water Repellent (DWR) finish. There are a number of DWR treatments available to renew the finish after laundering. The cheapest version would be any lightweight, unlined, uncoated nylon jacket ("windbreaker"). The DWR fabric is water resistant, not waterproof, but far more breathable than any rain jacket. You can get away with using your rain gear as a windproof layer, and I've done this, but it's really nice to have the extra breathability. The windshirt is handy to keep the bugs off you at rest stops (when I didn't take it last summer, the flies regarded my Permethrin-sprayed base layer shirt as so much appetizer, and I got well-chewed).

The outer layer, aka rain gear, can be waterproof and breathable ("breathable" being not very, IMHO) or just waterproof and non-breathable. To me there isn't much difference--if it's warm, I sweat and "wet out" just as much inside either. You can also select between a rain jacket and pants or a poncho (with gaiters or rain chaps to protect your legs). Out here in the Pacific Northwest, we may be hiking through wet brush for hours after it has stopped raining, so leg protection is important. The most breathable rain gear I've found is Frogg Toggs, which are also cheap. Unfortunately they aren't very durable, so aren't recommended if you're bushwacking through thorns and such.

I backpack in the Cascades spring through fall, and take a trip to the Rockies in summer. Temperatures in those alpine regions can get below freezing at night, with possible light snow any month of the year (although rare in the Cascades between July 5 and the end of August, I have seen it). In other words, not the kind of conditions you encounter in the Midwest, where the definition of "cold rain" might be 55* instead of 35*. When it's hot out here, the humidity is very low. If you ever plan to journey westward for a trip to the mountains, my list may be useful, but it's overkill for Indiana.

Please note that the following clothing list satisfies my own idiosyncratic preferences in the conditions I've described. To quote our favorite saying on this board, Your Mileage May Vary!

I hike in long sleeves and long pants, even when it's hot. I burn easily and am allergic to most sunscreens, so I keep covered up instead of slathering on chemicals. Long sleeves and pants also help keep the bugs off. When it's hot out here, the humidity, fortunately, is very low. If I were hiking in Indiana summers, I would wear something cooler, such as a long-sleeved, very loose lightweight shirt, rather than the base layer top. Underarm ventilation (such as mesh inserts) would be a good thing.

Underwear: Since I'm female, nylon sports bra and panties, made with loose knit. I especially like Ex-Officio. These are opaque enough to double as a 2-piece swim suit, and they dry very fast. Whatever you use for underwear, if anything, should be a highly breathable synthetic.

Base layer: Patagonia Capilene 2 bottoms and long-sleeve zip-tee. The top is also my hiking shirt. The bottoms are worn mostly in the sleeping bag and cold evenings and mornings. I don't wear them while on the move. I also have a short-sleeve merino wool T shirt that I use for an extra mid-layer in extra cold weather and wear at night in the sleeping bag if the Capilene 2 top is wet or dirty. This may be a little more than I really need, but I like to wear relatively clean and dry clothing inside my sleeping bag. My one luxury clothing item is a pair of soft, cuddly fleece socks for sleeping--my feet sigh in gratitude when I put them on!

Hiking pants--lightweight nylon long pants or Campmor Trekmor nylon convertible pants (the latter if I'm going where streams need to be forded, when I remove the lower legs to reduce current drag).

The good thing about my hiking layer is that if it gets wet, my body heat will very soon dry it out. I found this out when I slipped and fell into a stream I was fording on a cool, damp day last summer. Once I got hiking again, everything but my boots (Goretex lined, took almost 3 days to dry) was dry in less than 20 minutes.

Hiking hat: Sunday Afternoons Adventure hat. Thoroughly shades my face, well ventilated (mesh sides and a wicking headband), fits under rainjacket hood so keeps rain off my face/glasses. I could part with any other piece of gear or use a less expensive substitute, but not this hat!

Insulating layer: Montbell UL Thermawap jacket. The equivalent of this very pricey but very lightweight jacket would be a 200-weight fleece jacket plus windshirt. Either would be too warm for a Midwestern summer but would be good for spring and fall. I normally wear this only during rest stops or around camp when it's cold. If it gets really cold I would wear it to bed at night to supplement the sleeping bag. I don't take an insulating layer for my lower body because I've found that the combination of base layer, hiking pants and rain pants are sufficient.

Wind shirt: Montbell UL. I use this when hiking in light drizzle and/or fog (unless it's really warm, when I just wear the hiking layer and get wet), when it's windy (obviously) and at rest stops to keep the bugs (especially biting flies) off my upper body. If you get Montbell (which is extremely pricey), note that their sizes run really small. I normally wear a women's medium, but with Montbell a women's large is a snug fit. There are many other brands of windshirt which weigh in the 3-4 oz. range.

Outer layer: Brawny Gear silicone-coated nylon (silnylon) top and pants, waterproof and nonbreathable. My choice is undoubtedly controversial! My experience has shown me that unless it's quite cold, I become drenched from my own sweat while hiking even in breathable rain gear. When it's warm, I'm better off using my windshirt or just letting my hiking layer get wet. Only Frogg Toggs seem to be breathable enough for me not to drown inside. When it's quite cold and wet, it doesn't matter whether the rain gear is breathable or not because then I don't sweat. When it's cold and raining, I don't wear any insulating layers under the rain jacket when I'm actually hiking, although if it is around freezing I may add the above-mentioned merino wool T-shirt or a lightweight fleece vest. A bonus is that this waterproof, non-breathable gear can be worn over my base layer in the sleeping bag as a vapor barrier on below-freezing nights. This helps keep moisture from my body from condensing (or freezing) inside the outer shell of my sleeping bag, which would wet out the down. I'd like to note that Brawny Gear (and presumably other silnylon rain gear) needs to be carefully seam-sealed, especially around the base of the hood. Test all new raingear in the shower before taking it into the field.

For head and hands, I have a lightweight fleece balaclava, a pair of polypropylene fleece liner gloves (both Manzella, bought at Campmor) and a pair of waterproof rain overmitts (Mountain Laurel Designs). Some kind of warm hat is especially important, because more body heat is lost through the head than anywhere else. ("When your feet are cold, put on a hat.") You can regulate your whole body temperature, especially while hiking, just with head and neck covering.

The only "spare" clothing I take is socks (plus the aforementioned sleeping socks). Otherwise, I don't believe in taking more clothing than I would wear all at one time in the worst conditions I might encounter--sitting around on top of a windy, above-timberline pass in a late-summer snow, not that I would willingly stop and sit around in such conditions. Some people consider their sleeping bag as part of their insulation--they hike long hours, stop to cook dinner in late afternoon before hiking a few hours more, and get into their sleeping bags right away when they've made camp. This means they can lighten up on other insulation. My hiking style is different: I like to camp relatively early, have a leisurely dinner and wander around the area admiring the sunset scenery. I therefore want to be comfortably warm without my sleeping bag. YMMV again!

Early spring with its highly variable weather conditions (in most parts of the country) is an excellent time to experiment with various clothing items to find out what works for you. You can test the effectiveness of the insulating layers you may already have and practice your temperature regulating techniques (keeping yourself in a state that is not cold but not warm enough to sweat) during dayhikes. The best place to try out camping gear and gain some experience is the back yard (yours or a friend's). It does take more resolution to force yourself to sleep outdoors in nasty weather, but you need to learn to cope with such conditions. In the back yard, if everything goes south, you can safely retreat to the warm, dry indoors to ponder what you might do differently next time. Car-camping (with your car heater close by) is another good place for learning and gear testing.

Sorry about the length of this missive; I got a bit carried away!

Wow, there are some great answers on this thread that all of us could use. Thanks to Glen and OregonMouse. Maybe the monitors can make a sticky out of this thread in the beginner section?

I'm just starting one layer at a time, trying to find good deals on steapandcheap. A few days ago I got the CW-X LiteFit Zip long-sleeve. It was only $18 ($24.50 after shipping). It showed up on my doorstep this afternoon. The shirt fits perfectly and the synthetic material (healtha+) feels great on my skin. There is a short-sleeved version also. I'm hoping to score one on S&C, in a different color perhaps.



I'm not sure how I feel about silver being in the material.

I will add my two cents to this thread. What I wear depends a lot on the conditions I anticipate. I don't do the winter camping, though, so 30F is about the coldest weather I tend to encounter.

I like both wool and synthetic for base layer. When I expect warm weather, I really like Patagonia's capilene 1 (silkweight). The capilene with their "Gladiodor" treatment works really well. For cooler weather, I've become a fan of merino wool. When it gets down around freezing, I add a mid layer of insulation. A base of midweight Smartwool top and bottom I have found to be extremely versatile.

I've tried a lot of different wind layers, I think I've finally settled on one that meets all of my needs. It is the Patagonia Traverse (formerly called Cold Track Light). I have both the tights and the jacket. It does a great job of blocking the wind (but still breathes well) and sheds light precip. The best feature to me, though, is the mechanical stretch. It fits well even over a double layer of merino and does not restrict movement (I can swing a golf club).

When it gets cold, I like to add some pile insulation over the wind layer. Especially when I stop moving. I picked up a Patagonia Micro Puff pullover on clearance and my most recent purchase is a pair of OR Neoplume pants ($100 from Campmor). I haven't used the pants yet, but they'll be in my pack for my next autumn trip.

The last layer is my rain layer. I have a pair of Marmot Precip pants, an older Patagonia pullover, and a Westcomb Event jacket. The only place these have gotten much use is the golf course. I've been pretty fortunate, my last several hiking trips the only precip I've encountered has been snow.

On my head, I have settled on an OR Peruvian Windstopper hat. It is pretty lightweight and has a chin strap. I have a merino wool beanie that fits under it for colder weather. I also use a neck gaiter, the best one I have found is Cloudveil's Powerstretch gaiter.

Gloves and mittens is an entire subject by itself...

Shirts

Summer: Rain Rider Adventure Shirt
Moderate: Powerdry featherweight zip long sleeve tee
Cold: Patagonia R.5 (powerdry)

Pants

Nylon hiking pants only to sub-freezing
Then mid-weight powerdry

Insulation: light high loft vest like WM flash or montbell thermawrap.

Lots more thoughts on my mark's recommended clothing page