I lurk here alot and have learned so much from everyone. I thought you could help me with some MYOG ideas.

So, I'm working my from Jeep camping to backpacking, with some canoe camping in the middle. I realize that I need some type of Dry Bag. I went to price them and they are $$$$. Besides, anyone can just "buy" something. Anyone got any ideas on how to make my own dry bag?

I was thinking about contractor garbage bags, but they're really not all that durable and difficult to close, open reclose open reclose etc...

Then I was thinking about those BIG zip-lock bags, but they're not all that durable either.

Any ideas?

Thanks ahead of time.

For canoe and kayaking trips I like durable dry bags because they count as reserve bouyancy also, not just to keep stuff dry. This is very useful not just for staying afloat but also to keep the boat light enough so you don't have to wrestle with an aligator as it were, in surf or rapids after you swamp. Less bailing out also. So whatever displaces the most air/water without adding too much weight. For open canoes I have seen sealed plastic drums used effectively.

Tyvek and use the tape made especially for the tyvek. Use this an an "outer bag" and then use trash compactor or the oversize ziploc inside.

I remember there used to be military surplus bag liners for ALICE packs. They were waterproof and cheap. They're probably still around.

Yes, good dry bags are not cheap. Assuming you are talking about using them for your canoe trips, you can't wrong with 5 gal buckets. They are water tight. You can even get them for free if you know the right tradesmen. If not, they are not that expensive to get brand new at your favorite hardware or home improvement store. When in camp, you can use them as a stool to sit on. I use them on rafting trips. I put the crushable items like bread and chips in them, and as we drink the canned beverages, I crush the cans and put them in one of the buckets and don't have to worry about them cutting through a garbage bag. Because the original lids can be a pain to get on and off, they become so much more convenient with one of these these lids. I can get the lids locally for about $13.00 plus about $5 I believe for a new bucket. Or do without the groovy screw lid and save $$$$. They are also good for keeping the smaller critters out of your food.

Try using commercial grade large plastic bags as liners inside of whatever pack you have. Leave enough room at the top to fold it over several times and then secure inside of the pack. In addition, seal anything that needs to stay dry such as your sleeping bag, food, etc. in other bags of the same type and enclose them inside of the larger bag. You should be able to get heavy plastic bags of this sort in a Home Depot type store. Just treat them carefully and shield them inside of a pack so that they don't tear of develop small holes. That should do fine and are what many canoeists have used for a long time inside of canvas, Duluth style packs.

Also, large vinyl dry packs (the simplest version) made by Sealine and a few other manufacturers are pretty inexpensive and a very practical and convenient way to protect your gear. Sometimes Sierra Trading Post has them for very little money and even at regular or close to regular prices, the 6,000 cubic inch version is around $85 at Campmor. Buy the one pack and then you don't need to buy special dry bags for everything else that you put inside of it (although it's not a bad idea if you can). Here's a link to what I'm referring to at Campmor, but you may be able to find a better price for the same or similar elsewhere:
http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores...productId=10272


Good luck
Gerry Magnes
Schenectady, NY

Really good ideas. I started following that link and found these watersport bags that are reasonable. http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores...&sort=A

The local places wanted upwards of $100 for just a bag, which made me lol. These are much more reasonable, but I still like the other ideas. I really like the ideas of the 5 gal buckets. My local Burger King gives away pickle buckets and they have lids. I hadn't thought about just using the ziplocks, trash compactor bags, or contractor bags inside another regular bag. I still like the creative approaches. Like I said, anyone can buy gear. Keep the ideas coming.

Oooh, I know it's far from lightweight, but what about those ammo cans. Aren't they watertight?

They are suppose to be. Mine have a rubber/foam seal on the lid. But, I haven't actually submerged them to see. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

In theory, but i'd say more water resistant. The seals on ammo cans tend to be inconsistent. And they're way too heavy, as you pointed out.

Trash compacter bags are cheap, quite durable and easily replaceable. I use both those and regular dry bags on kayaking trips.

“Because the original lids can be a pain to get on and off, they become so much more convenient with one of these these lids.”

Pretty slick! You might be able to get a better deal here. They’re on sale for $7 this month. http://beprepared.com/category.asp?c=444...hcd2=1206373316

-Barry

Those Gamma Lids are cool! I found them on eBay for $5, but another $5 or $6 in S&H. I wonder if I could find them locally?

Wow, that's a great price. I use a bucket at home with one of those lids for my dog's food. Keeps it nice and tidy.

Been thinking some more. What about a trash compactor bag inside a stuff sack?

The best article I've ever seen on dry bags and homemade options is

http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/DryGear/index.html

As I recall he says that a plastic bag with a "candycane twist" can do well, especially when combined with a secondary line of defense.

Read the whole article, it's quite good and aimed at people who are likely to have their stuff totally submerged in water rather than just exposed to some rainfall.

There is a really large one that works great - available at walmart for < 20.00 . I am not sure you will be able to beat that price for the durability in a home made design. I know this does not answer your question - but I thought it might be helpful.

Or you could go to an awning shop - I have done this to get outfitting materials for whitewater canoes
Ask to go through the scraps
If you get lucky you may find some material big enough to fashion a dry bag
Less seams would be better - but once glued it will never leak
Get some vynabond
http://www.nrsweb.com/repair/vynabond.asp
and glue it however you want - no seam sealing will be needed.
Fashion a roll top closure - and you should be good to go
vynabond is awsome stuff - go to mike yee website to see how the patches are glued in to boats - these withstand some serious stress - especially during the eskimo roll or when caught in some maneater hole
http://mikeyeeoutfitting.com/index.htm

oops= forgot to say that you will be looking for vinyl at the awing shop

Those $20 (actually $18 around here) Walmart dry bags actually work quite well and are fairly tough. Mine lasted all last year and it's still good as new.

Another good option are those HUGE Hefty ziplock bags used to store clothing and the like. They have a much tougher plastic than food/freezer bags and have been completely water tight when stuffed in my kayak. They are cheap enough to double for a little insurance.

For things like keys/wallets/cell phones, etc. plastic wide mouthed peanut butter jars work great. Any of the polycarbonate food jars work. I "lapped" the lid seal with some 200 grit wet and dry sandpaper to get a good seal, but its not really needed. Water test your jar before you use it to make sure.

Alabama,
I agree with Magnus, Line any protective bag such as a duffle bag or backpack with contractor bags or heavy duty lawn and leaf bags. Use the biggest you can find so they over-fill the outside container. That way, there will be no stress on the liner bag except abrasion. If a bag starts looking worn, replace it. To close them securely, press the air out and twist the top into a tight "rope", fold the twist and secure it with big rubber bands. Don't put so much gear in a bag that you can't twist at least 10 inches tightly.