After one of the wettest winters in Yosemite history, spring has arrived with warming temperatures and a host of challenges for backpackers in the wilderness. Despite rising water levels from spring runoff, 4-7 ft of snow persists at 7,500 ft with 10 ft or more at the higher elevations. The snowline has crept up to roughly 7,000 ft but is still widely variable depending on aspect and topography. With such abundance, snow will linger well into the summer months, especially at higher elevations.
Increasing water levels from spring run-off will make many streams and creeks difficult or impossible to cross. This is further complicated by steep snow banks that persist on either side.
With the heavy rain and snow this winter, some trails may have more erosion damage than usual. Trails may have also experienced mudslides, rockfalls, and/or multiple downed trees. Exercise caution when traveling on trails and turn around if you do not feel comfortable going forward.
Winter travel techniques and skills are a must if you wish to backpack in Yosemite over the next few months. Be prepared for near-freezing temperatures at night and variable temperatures during the day. Except for the lower elevations and exposed areas, plan to camp in the snow. Springs storms can come at any time with heavy snowfall, making travel and navigation very difficult. Always be sure to check a current weather forecast before you start your trip and be prepared for a multitude of conditions.
Summer Outlook: Yosemite has received the most precipitation in its recorded history his winter (water year from Oct-Sept). However, the overall 2017 snowpack is only the 4th wettest on record in Yosemite and 176% of average. How can this be? Many of the storms this winter were relatively warm, meaning that while snow fell at the higher elevations it rained at lower elevations where it often times snowed in the past. This bears out in the snowpack with an uneven distribution of snow. The higher elevations, approximately 8,500 ft and above, are about 215% of average and are the highest on record, whereas the lower elevations are only 150% of average. Hence, the overall average of the snowpack is not a record.
It bears repeating, don't let the overall snowpack number average fool you. At elevations at 8,500 ft and above, this year is the highest on record! This Wilderness ranger echoes what the park hydrologist says, that it would be 'overly optimistic' to think about hiking easily in the higher elevations until August.
The recent May 1 snow surveys further reiterated this trend where most of the snow courses 8,500 ft and above were 215% or more of average. The two highest elevation courses are the also the highest percentage at 230%. The percentage of snow for the time of year stayed consistent or even increased a little compared to the April 1 snow survey, meaning there was no significant melt in April.
Spring weather will determine the amount of snow on the trails in July and August. A warm & dry spring will promote snowmelt whereas a cool & wet spring will diminish snowmelt. The chances of a warm, normal or cold spring are roughly equal, meaning a 33% chance for each. To make a significant change in the snowpack, the spring will have be particularly warm and sunny, making it even less likely. Spring weather can be highly variable and with any weather, it is unknown what it will be in the coming months.
So far spring has been cooler and wetter than normal, with April having above normal precipitation and below normal temperatures. Despite a few warm days so far in May, the weather is forecast to be cooler with the potential for precipitation for the next week.
For summer trips, be prepared for a different than usual hiking experience. Expect snow on the trails at elevations above 8,000 ft well into July and even August. There will likely be high creek crossings, snow on the trail and you may have to alter your route significantly depending on the conditions. Creek crossings in particular maybe challenging because if the creek is too high there are few options to cross and you may have to turn around.
Yosemite has a lot granite slab terrain where snow will melt of sooner than in timber. I have backpacked early and generaly found that if willing to camp on a flat rock you do not have to camp on snow. You just have to adjust your definition of "campsite".
The high water is far more of a problem. I would bet that one or more bridges wash out this year. No problem if you have a backup plan. Again, adjust your definition of a "trip". I always make sure that I have enough food to turn around and go back at any point in the trip. A problem with many is that snow covers trails. You REALLY need to know how to navigate. The GPS is also quite useful to find the trail when you loose it. But trying to exactly walk the trail under the snow can be a time waster. WIth good navigation skills you can pick out the more stable snow and do less post-holing.
Counter-intuitive, the snow is more solid out in the open where repeated thaw and freeze consolidates it. I stay out of trees when possible. But, at some point, maybe often, you will end up post-holing. Adjust your definition of a good "pace". 5-7 miles a day is usual because each mile is so muchy harder. Snowshoes help, but I personally rather just walk, accept the post-holing, rather than deal with the extra weight of snowshoes. Trekking poles are a must. Micro-spikes help if you want to travel early when the snow is icy and crusty.
Spring melt is not the time for a newbie to go into Yosemite high country. But it is a wonderful scenic time for old pros who know how to deal with snow to enjoy a normally very crowded area with less congestion. Yosemite trails, from the Valley, are my favorite early season destinations.
By the way, the Northern Rockies have also received above average snowpack, with more still falling. You will be facing the same issues there. The non-snow "regular" backpack season will be pushed back a month or so.
These more snowy condtions are similar to what was "normal" pre-1980. For me, it will just be like the "good old days".
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