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#156067 - 10/19/11 01:04 PM another British invasion
skcreidc Offline
member

Registered: 08/16/10
Posts: 1590
Loc: San Diego CA
I'm not sure if anyone here cares, but here goes. Brits Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker have come to the US to do everything wide. And by that I mean crack climbing where the cracks are generally wider than a fist so you need to use different techniques to hold your self in and move along. Very impressive stuff; these guys trained and trained hard, and it shows! They built a bunch of wooden off-widths in their cellar and worked them for 2 years prior to coming over. This is just an example of what these two are pulling off.

Pete Whittaker Flashes Belly Full Of Bad Berries

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#157514 - 11/15/11 10:37 PM Re: another British invasion [Re: skcreidc]
billstephenson Offline
Moderator

Registered: 02/07/07
Posts: 3889
Loc: Ozark Mountains in SW Missouri
Wow, that is amazing stuff. I don't get to this forum much, so I missed this for a long time, but that is incredible stuff!.

Do you climb?

I never could do it. I mentioned that I used to hike the trail on Moro Rock when I lived in CA. That's not climbing, but that trail does take you right on the side of a sheer drop off that goes a long way down. When I was a teen I hiked out to the point, and over the rail, and peeked out as far as a could get. Loved it. Did it many times. But the last time I went there it got to me. I was in my mid-twenties then. I didn't get all panicked out, and I still did the trail, but it got to me and I never went again, and have never done anything even close since then.

The stuff those guys you linked to are doing is stunning. Just looking at the photos makes me squirm. It's amazing any human could do that. It's amazing that they would.

One of my daughters has a new boyfriend that climbs. She's told him about my backpacking. Last night she said that whippersnapper actually told her "I might take up backpacking when I get old."

That may be true, but if he keeps talking like that he's likely to take a boot in the ass way before then laugh


Edited by billstephenson (11/15/11 10:38 PM)
Edit Reason: typos...
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#157519 - 11/16/11 12:06 AM Re: another British invasion [Re: billstephenson]
oldranger Offline
member

Registered: 02/23/07
Posts: 1735
Loc: California (southern)
He will be backpacking while he is still young, just as soon as he starts doing real climbs where you have serious approaches, and it wont be lightweight backpacking. Climbing toys add up to serious weight.

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#157522 - 11/16/11 01:06 AM Re: another British invasion [Re: oldranger]
skcreidc Offline
member

Registered: 08/16/10
Posts: 1590
Loc: San Diego CA
Hahahahahaha. Old ranger, you got that right. Of course he has to be able to afford those climbing toys first. Throw in a few cams for wide cracks and it will be cheaper for him to drive to the coast and go surfing.


Bill asked if I climb...the honest answer is that I am working on it. And I need all the inspiration I can get.

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#157547 - 11/16/11 12:45 PM Re: another British invasion [Re: skcreidc]
oldranger Offline
member

Registered: 02/23/07
Posts: 1735
Loc: California (southern)
The benevolent gear companies are just tending to our well-being. Expensive gear lightens wallets and the reduced weight allows us to do harder moves.

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#157559 - 11/16/11 04:27 PM Re: another British invasion [Re: oldranger]
billstephenson Offline
Moderator

Registered: 02/07/07
Posts: 3889
Loc: Ozark Mountains in SW Missouri
Originally Posted By oldranger
He will be backpacking while he is still young, just as soon as he starts doing real climbs where you have serious approaches, and it wont be lightweight backpacking. Climbing toys add up to serious weight.


Now that is funny laugh

I'll be sure to pass that along his way too wink
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"You want to go where?"



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#157561 - 11/16/11 04:41 PM Re: another British invasion [Re: skcreidc]
billstephenson Offline
Moderator

Registered: 02/07/07
Posts: 3889
Loc: Ozark Mountains in SW Missouri
Originally Posted By skcreidc
I need all the inspiration I can get.


Well, my first post here didn't offer any of that frown

Honestly, I am amazed when watching climbers. It really does get my adrenaline pumping just watching.

It's a fairly popular sport here. We don't have any huge rocks like you do out west, but we have some decent bluffs to take on, and there are several places in nearby towns where they have practice walls.

When I lived in Sylmar, CA there used to be a lot of hang gliders that took off above there. For me, that's a lot like climbing. It looks like a ton of fun, and I am amazed by those who do it. Aside from the gear and skills, I have to think it takes a strong sense of confidence in oneself, and the tenacity to retain it the entire time your at it. There's a lot to be said for those qualities.

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#157567 - 11/16/11 06:07 PM Re: another British invasion [Re: billstephenson]
oldranger Offline
member

Registered: 02/23/07
Posts: 1735
Loc: California (southern)
I think one could make a good case for having any reasonably competent backpacker become knowledgeable with the basics of technical climbing - familiarity with belaying, knots and anchors, and how to rappel safely. I am not saying that you have to climb 5.15 to be safe, but proper use of a rope can increase the safety margin on a lot of trips. Part of what you should learn is what terrain to avoid if you are not equipped properly.

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#157570 - 11/16/11 06:35 PM Re: another British invasion [Re: oldranger]
OregonMouse Online   content
member

Registered: 02/03/06
Posts: 6401
Loc: Gateway to Columbia Gorge
And also at least some knowledge of safe travel on snow, with some knowledge/practice in self-arrest and assessing avalanche dangers as a minimum. Perhaps not so essential for those venturing out only in summer, but even then, having some idea of whether a lingering snowbank is safe to cross is a good idea.

Oldranger, you said it very well:
Quote:
Part of what you should learn is what terrain to avoid if you are not equipped properly.


Edited by OregonMouse (11/16/11 06:37 PM)
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May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view--E. Abbey

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#157578 - 11/16/11 08:15 PM Re: another British invasion [Re: OregonMouse]
skcreidc Offline
member

Registered: 08/16/10
Posts: 1590
Loc: San Diego CA
Hey you all forgot the fun part and the good exercise part grin . But I agree with you both that basic rock craft and mountaineering skills should be a priority for anybody who is spending time in the mountains. A lot of the rock craft can be done very safely top roping while doing bouldering problems. Heck, the easier ones are good to do "laps" on to build endurance. I know I'm not going to be the next climbing legend or the next sad headline, I just want to have some fun exploring (while keeping my cholesterol and mild hypertension in check through vigorous exercise as opposed to pills).

So...hat's off to those 2 brits! Those guys seem to spend more time upside down than right side up. They did Century Crack twice! Once with pre-placed gear, and a second time traditionally (as some gave them grief about the pre-placed gear although no one had completed the route traditionally up until they did). I think they did the thing right.

And Bill, you DID inspire me to finish my "application to date my daughter". wink


Edited by skcreidc (11/16/11 08:18 PM)

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