Last winter I used a penny alcohol stove with a DIY caldera cone setup. But this winter I was thinking I ought to have a white gas stove in case I have to melt snow or whatever.

So I dug my old SVEA 123 out of storage. Hadn't used it in 25 years. I filled it up, primed it with alcohol, and with a little fiddling got it running.

But now I have a stupid question to ask. What is the right way to turn the stove on and off? I found that if I turn the key all the way in either direction the flame goes out. So I'm not sure whether it is a "right on, left off" control or not. Any SVEA users out there that can enlighten me? It's just been too many years since I've fired this baby up. I still have the original box but not the original instructions.

I wondered if this indicates that the stove has a problem and won't run on it's "full open" setting. Does that sound possible?

Does your Svea have a self-cleaning jet? In the Optimus 8R, turning the valve all the way open (counter-clockwise) forces the cleaning needle into the jet from below, which also closes the jet. IIRC later 123 models did the same thing, but I could be mistaken. If so, you should be able to see it.

Rick, you are correct. The Svea 123 has a self-cleaning jet; at least the later versions do. If you turn the valve counter-clockwise more than about one turn, a needle comes up and pushes dirt out of the jet. In doing so, it will shut off the flow of fuel.

Your Svea 123 has the self-cleaning jet if the valve stem body slopes down about 10 degrees from the burner riser. If the valve stem is at a right angle to the riser, then you have the older version that is not self cleaning. The older version comes with a tool, a small piece of fine piano wire mounted on a handle, for cleaning the jet. I have been firmly told that the older version works better and is more reliable. I have not found that to be the case.

Ah, the self-cleaning needle could very well be blocking the flow and that's why it shuts off in that direction also. I'll check if mine has one.

By the way, the wikipedia entry on the SVEA 123 says the opposite about whether the older or new has the angled spindle.

"These older models are distinguishable by their downwardly-angled spindle, which houses the control valve and to which the adjusting key is attached. The spindle on a Svea 123R with the self-cleaning needle is at a right angle to the stem."

The older ones are angled. I have both. The self cleaning valve body is at a right angle to the burner stem. The valve stem on the new version has a little splined end that drives the self cleaning needle into the burner jet when you turn the valve all the way to the right. The needle is set into a little splined brass part that could get gummed up over time, I suppose. If in doubt, you can squirt some carburetor cleaner into the jet body (stove off!!), let it soak, then fire it up. I've never had a problem with either of my Svea's or R8 stoves.

I just checked my fairly new Svea. It does in fact have the valve stem at a right angle; sorry for getting it wrong. I guess I should count myself lucky that I can remember that the Svea is a stove!

Thanks for the help. You guys were exactly right. My stove has the 90 degree angle and it does have the built-in cleaning needle for cleaning the burner jet . It was so small I hadn't noticed it before. When I turn it all the way on the needle rises and blocks the jet. Mystery solved!

I had forgotten not only how to operate this thing but also what a great stove it is. I had to laugh when I heard that roaring sound when I got it going. I had forgotten about that too. I did an experiment last night. I left the stove out in the cold overnight and then the next day warmed it briefly with my hand and then cranked the valve open. Sure enough that was enough to get the fuel going and I was able to start it with no priming. I had heard of people doing this but had never tried it.

Great stove. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

one thing to remember while you're hiking - if you operate it or open it up high, then seal it up, you have negative pressure inside the tank to start with once you drop down lower - this can make it a real bear to get going, because you have to overcome that negative pressure to build up a positive
pressure inside the tank.

I make it a habit to always open the fuel tank cap slightly first to ensure I'm starting with the air pressure for where I'm at first, then close it and warm up the stove with hands, etc, prior to trying to prime and stuff.

Ah, makes sense. Come to think of it that's probably why my experiment worked. I opened the fuel cap after the stove was cold just to look at the fuel level. Then I closed it back up before I warmed it up with my hand. So there was no negative pressure from the stove cooling after I had put the fuel in the day before.

Good advice. I'll have to remember that.

I have owned my svea for a few months now. And have grown to love it. My only question is once im done using the stove and turn the key compleatly clockwise. A small Bic like flame will burn. for a few moments. Is this normal. Thanks Samoset

Sounds ok to me. As long as the valve is off (no leakage if you were to invert the stove after it's flame is gone), what you are getting is some residual fuel in the generator chamber. Just blow it out.

Make sure that you are actually shutting it off and not just plugging the orifice with the cleaning needle.