Haze

My camera does not have the capability to add filters or additional lenses. Compared to a UV filter, how good is post-processing? So far I have been able to get sharper photos with post-processing (Adobe Elemens 10), but the color ends up looking a bit artificial. Do I simply not know enough about the post-processing or it is impossible to duplicate what a real camera filter does?

Digital post processing can help a lot, but if the information is not recorded by your sensor, you can not recover it in post processing. In that regards using the correct filters and lens will always give you better results (theoretically).

You mention haze in your title... what is it you are having problems capturing. You can also affect what the sensor captors by adjusting sensitivities while you take the picture.

Most ofen the haze is lingering smoke from forest fires. Some locations on the west side of the Sierra also get some air pollution creeping up. And then there is the shooting toward the sun (such as trying to get north facing cliffs). I think some of my high altitude photo wash-outs are a UV issue.

Examples:
Unprocessed:

Processed: (colors look strange to me)


Smoke in air: (processed as best I could get it)


Shooting to the south into sun

What camera are you using?

I know my camera does not have the ability to have filter either, but someone "invented" a hooky-do and now I can have a UV filter on it.

I can often do a decent job in postprocessing using the levels sliders to cut out some of the light scatter. Not always, but a decent percentage of the time.

Always make sure to shade your lens, because sometimes haze is actually lens flare. This is tough sometimes if you have a particularly wide angle lens.

In the field, you could try handholding a polarizer in front of the camera lens. They're the best way to cut atmospheric haze, as well as knock down surface reflections off water, leaves, etc.

Happy experimenting!

Heather: Can you please tell me what is, or provide me an image of, this item that you call a "hooky-do?" I am having difficulty locating this apparatus on any of the various photo websites that I have purchased from. My calls to B&H Photo were of no avail; they disconnected my call after I repeatedly told the operator I was in search of this elusive 'hooky-do.'

Just remember, B&H will neither sell you a hooky-do, nor a who'za-what'sit between sundown on Friday and sundown on Saturday.

That could be your problem, right there.

Cheers,

, This adapter is made specifically for my Canon Powershot SX10 and hooks on the sun hood ... thingy. I'm not a professional photographer, so I don't know the special lingo.
Lens Adapter

I figure if they made such an adapter for my camera, maybe they made adapters for others.

I've purchased one of these off ebay before. It threaded into the p&s camera at the base of the lens and extended out the distance of the lens at its farthest point and allowed you to attach various lenses and filters. I think many of the modern lightweight p&s cameras don't have the ability to add these.

I don't mind the coloration of your altered photo. You may have similar complaints if you were to use an actual UV filter. The washed out photo could be helped by shielding the camera from the sun.

I will say this... lighting is the most challenging aspect of photography. Pro's carry heavy equipment and have invested a lot of time to get it right. Don't expect to always be able to get the photo you want with a p&s camera.

I have seen many photos of the grand canyon over the years, not one has come close to doing it justice.

I would try to shield the sun a bit (with your hat)... and maybe try a UV filter. Also, (if I can rant for a bit) the biggest mistake I see novices do when buying a digital camera is they want a long focal length and high megapixel count. Both those things tend to make pictures worse. A long focal length means every pic you take will be thru a lot of glass. A high megapixel count increases the "noise" in black areas of your photograph. Pic out a camera with a moderate focal range and try (its not easy to do) to get a camera with the largest CCD.

Correcting this problem at the camera will always yield better results than post-capture processing. If your camera will not accept a threaded filter and there is not an adaptor to rig a filter to the camera (ask a good retailer like B&H or Adorama); then you can always simply buy a filter, say 52mm, and manually hold it against your existing lens. Please note that this will ONLY work well if the outer lens element is recessed. In other words, the glass of the filter should not touch the lens glass. It can be awkward to shoot like this, but with a little practice it is very manageable. A UV haze filter will help with your issues, but what you really want is a polarizing filter. To use a polarizing filter you have to rotate it, so that will add another layer of complexity; but since you are taking landscapes there is usually plenty of time to fiddle with gear and still collect the image you want. You will also lose about half a stop with a polarizing filter. Good luck!