Gas Cannisters

I bought gas cannisters and got out the postal scale and weighed the new ones and partially used ones. The GigaPower medium cannisters weigh 13 oz. with 7.76 oz. of fuel; the Brunton medium cannister weighs 12.6 oz with 8 oz fuel. The Brunton is a 3-season mix, whereas the GigaPower is a 4-season mix. I used both last year and honestly the Brunton cannisters lasted a day longer and the cold was no problem. I have heard that the Brunton cannisters are no longer made. Has anyone else heard this? I purchased these at Sports Chalet yesterday.

Regardless of which brand, I am depressed that about 40% of the weight is the metal can (5 oz.) I guess you also carry a metal bottle when you use white gas too and it probably weighs more than 5 oz. White gas is definitely cheaper - but at what point do you save weight by going with white gas?

The weight stinks, but I like the convenience on warmer trips. We've taken to sleeping with cannisters on some cooler camps, even around these lower lattudes and elevations, to get decent pressure going. Colder and I prefer to use the liquid fuels and a stove with a pre-heat tube.

One of my old punctured CampinGAZ "8oz" cannisters weighed in at 146g/5.15oz empty. A MSR IsoPro "8oz" cannister empty was 130g/4.59oz - about what you measured for the Brunton. I didn't measure a population of each, so not sure of the variablility in weight for the individual brands.

So, you maybe can shave a few feathers by brand. At first blush it looks like the first you mentioned is one to avoid or measure more of to get the range in wt.

I suggest, if your out long enough to justify it, using the taller cans to optimize gas volume per container weight. "16oz" empty 199g/7.02oz for CampinGAZ by my measurements. A similar reason for staying away from the shorter cannisters.

Hank Hill would be pleased with my preference.

I've also found the empties superior targets to beer cans (full ones much superior!). Consequently, my old punctured MSR have too much metal removed for a reliable comparison.

WD, check out this test that Sgt.Rock did a while back. There is a cross-over point where liquid fuel stoves gain the advantage over canisters. However, a lot of people here swear by alcohol stoves because the stove itself weighs next to nothing and the fuel can be carried in soda bottles. The trade-off is less energy per unit of fuel with alcohol; i.e. it doesn't burn as hot as white gas.

Unfortunately, this test only compares one canister stove with various alcohol stoves, but it may help. Sgt. Rock's stove comparison

A similar article on Thru-Hiker.com shows the canister and cat (alcohol) stoves, plus fuel, as basically "neck and neck," weight-wise, over a 14-day period. The crossover point (where the alcohol stove becomes very slightly lighter) is at about 9 days. The canister stove used is not specified, however. I note that Sgt. Rock used a 21-oz. canister stove, which is really heavy--my Primus Micron (without the canister) is 3.5 oz. That's a big difference!

The isobutane canisters weigh a lot because they have to be strong enough to contain the contents under quite a bit of pressure. Better the extra weight than having a bomb explode in your pack, or even just having the propane leak out.

I love the convenience of canisters. I printed out the directions for making the cat stove and even went so far as to buy a couple of cans of cat food (which I need to give to my cat-owning neighbors before the expiration date!), but I never progressed further, mostly because of the article I cited. I think that one reason the alcohol stove appeals to through-hikers is that the fuel can be found just about anywhere, so it's much easier to re-supply. I also think that a lot of the choice depends on with which stove you're most comfortable. (The canister stove is easier to use, but it's tippier!) There is, of course, the option that if you opt for alcohol and to spend the $$ for Everclear, you can also use your fuel as a beverage, but I've never felt the need to drink booze in the outdoors. YMMV!

The empty isobutane canisters can be taken home and recycled with your cans if you punch a hole in them and let them sit outside a while for the fumes to evaporate. Even with Bob's hole-punching method, you could still recycle what's left.

>"The empty isobutane canisters can be taken home and recycled with your cans if you punch a hole in them and let them sit outside a while for the fumes to evaporate. Even with Bob's hole-punching method, you could still recycle what's left."

On a recent backpacking trip, I just left the stove on the empty canister with the valve open for about a half hour. Then I used the the blade from my Leatherman Micra to stab about 4 holes into the canister. Then I used a handy rock to pound the thing flat. In the end, it wasn't much thicker than a few sheets of paper.

You might want to look at the Coleman Xtreme series. The only problem with them is that they use a proprietary cartridge that is hard to find. I wouldn't take one overseas, but I do have one for domestic use.

Jim Shaw swears by his and that is the only reason I have one-it does work quite well, even in mildly cold weather (around 10F or so).

The Coleman stoves come with a "key" to punture the cartridges for recyling-they are aluminum.

At least WRT White Gas, my MSR bottles weigh the same order of magnitude as an isopro canister, yes, they give me more boil time, but the stoves and pump are quite a bit heavier.
at least, particularly when you're comparing stoves like a svea or whisperloud which I am.
an 11 oz msr fuel bottle weighs 3 oz and the 22 weighs 5,

now, while the fuels aren't exactly equivalent in the energy they get out of them, assume it's
close enough for a minute, and assume weather isn't a factor, and do the math.

Comparing one canister:
8 + 5 = 13 (canister)
11 + 3 = 14 (small) 2 oz more fuel

or two, or three:
22 + 5 = 27 6 oz more fuel than 2 canisters, 2 less than three
13 + 13 =26
13 + 13 + 13 = 39

Trouble is you're talking about, in the best case, 6 oz more fuel for the weight carried here, or being able to carry 12 oz less weight for slightly less fuel.

the problem is then the weight of the stove and pump.
My snow peak gigapower stove weighs 3 oz.
My whisperloud weighs about 16 oz or so, and the pump a couple ounces.
my svea weighs 19 oz... A new MSR simmerlight I think weighs about 8, but even then with a
couple ounces for the pump, you're still only about breaking even on up to three canisters.

Now if weather is a factor, (i.e. snow and cold) forget it, I take white gas.

I also normally use a canister stove. However, another option if fires are legal (which is probably an issue for you...I think you normally hike in the Sierras), and you don't mind soot is the Bushbuddy. I got one of these last year and I haven't gotten to fully test it on the trail yet, but I have done some back yard testing. I intend to do a write up on it when I get to use it in the field. From the back yard testing this thing is pretty cool. It is definitely a niche item as I can't see the masses wanting to buy one, but it weighs right around 5 oz and that's it. Fuel is all around.

I can't help but snicker at carrying anything when fires are legal. if you're going to use a wood fire and fires are legal, a *very* small twig fire inside three rocks can easily boil water. Just set your pot on the rocks. There's a reason most of the third world talks about a "three stone fire".

I've tried variants of the downdraft wood stoves and the like, but even a tomato sauce can is a lot heavier in my pack than nothing <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

So, as far as weight goes, if fires are legal, make one. just make a very small one to keep your impact
low. While I won't do it from an LNT perspective in a random place, When I'm hitting backcountry campsites where fires are allowed, I certainly have no concern (ethically) with doing this. Now, ususally
I carry an alky stove as well, so If the weather is miserable and I don't want to mess with tending a small
fire, I can use alky.

Yeah, I thought of trying that too, but the Bushbuddy is in essence like using a gas canister or white gas stove in terms of convenience. I can collect a little wood (it doesn't take much) along the way, throw the stove down, throw the wood in, start it up, and throw my pot on (it has a integral pot holder). I envision that when I get proficient at this it will not take much longer than pulling out the canister stove, screwing it onto the canister, lighting it and throwing the pot on it.

I'm sure someone proficient at using a cook fire could probably boil water that way pretty quickly too. The only issue there is finding rocks, and the potential "scar" you have to remove when you are done. The Bushbuddy doesn't leave a scar. As a matter of fact, you can actually pick it up from the bottom with your bare hand when it has a fire in it. So anyway, once done boiling water or whatever, you just let it go out. Then when you ensure it is out you dump out the minimal amount of ash it generated. So at right around 5 oz, it appears to be a good tradeoff between weight and convenience. Like I said though, I still have to field test it to decide if I really like it or not. The soot is definitely a pain in the rear.

The solution is so simple. LOL if its too heavy then don't carry it. Start a camp fire ( if legal) to keep you warm up.

Seems the newest weight-saving gizmo is the Caldera Cone with the new "graham cracker" ESBIT/FireLite fuel tab holder.

People are getting very good boil times and, with alcohol and the C.C. they can save fuel over their regular alky stove useage. I prefer the fuel tabs B/C they are lighter, can be easily saved when partially burned and take up little space.

The Caldera Cone also uses wood and comes in a Ti version also. I'm trying to see if the C.C. can be custom made to accomodate my JetBoil 1.5 L. pot, which is VERY efficient on many other stoves I have.

Eric